Overlooking the Presqu’île is the old silk weaving district of Lyon. Silk weavers were called Canuts and you can find out more at La Maison des Canuts Museum. The Canuts were subject to appalling working conditions and there were several uprisings in the 19th century.
The area has now been revamped and it has a distinctly arty feel about it. There are traboules, wonderful views and an Ancient Roman Theatre. There’s also an excellent large outdoor food market which is open every day except Monday and plenty of inviting cafes and restaurants. To explore on foot I would recommend starting near the top of the hill [Henon Metro] and walking downhill slowly towards La Presqu’île.
Le Mur des Canuts
This amazing mural on the corner of Boulevard des Canuts and rue Denfert Rochereau is near Henon Metro. It was created in 1987 and the people in the mural are based on actual inhabitants. The mural has been updated a couple of times [in 2013 on the last occasion] and the inhabitants are appropriately aged. It is the largest wall painting in Europe. If you head through the passage on the left there is information and photos about the mural on display on the walls.
Traboules
There are more traboules to discover in La Croix-Rousse [yay!]. They were used by the Canuts in the 19th century to transport their goods safely across the city.
At the bottom of La Croiz-Rousse are the remains of a Roman Theatre which was built in 19AD at the confluence of the rivers Saône and Rhône [which is now to the south]. It was closed to visitors when I ventured there in 2023 but you can still get a good view and it’s worth a walk around.
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